Monday, August 24, 2009

I heart Cali

This is a long board. Long boards are designed to make it easier to handle waves while surfing. This long board is made out of foam so that it is lighter and easier on your knees. None of this was true for me today. Now I learned to surf in Mexico and actually had an easy-ish time with it. That was not the case today. I got out to the La Jolla Shores by 8am and Coach Wolfe had a few extra boards with him. My coach said "tie that to your leg and good luck" and off I went. I quite liked paddling out past the waves and sitting on the board much like Dylan McKay, but the actual surfing part did not come so naturally. I was getting pushed off the front, the back and each side of the board. But it was fun. I noticed an older woman was surfing the smaller whites of the waves and I asked her what I should do. She suggested first getting up onto my knees (that was simple), then putting one leg up (got that) and eventually standing (rrrrrrrrrrright). It was just kind of too shallow where I was trying to learn because the waves that were further out were getting too large for me (sometimes bigger is not better). I should also not try to catch every single waves like I do when I boogy board because it takes alot more energy to surf. My knees are allllllllllllll scratched up cause i kept falling to my knees in the shallow water, I am bruised all over hte place (feet, ankles, wrists, hips you name it), and I came out of the water with the largest filled blisters evah! I pretty much have layer upon layer upon layer of blisters and they are getting pretty uncomfortable. I do however love taking a needle to them each day and letting the nastiness ooze out of there. I think I will try surfing a few more times this week because I just cannot let the ocean defeat me like that. Lots of sharks around today but fortunately the water is clear enough to see where they are, and they are little sand ones that dont eat people. Dave did however have a sting ray around his feet but I waited to telll him about it until after. Nice.
Last nights Italian fest at Daves friends house was great and we met tons of cool bostonians that live out here. A fun bunch for sure and yes I was trying to bruise his nipples in the picture. A few of his friends and coach Wolfe are coming over tonight for a bbq. Bri is going to see how his ribs measure up since a few of these folks are from Texas. And we all know how texans love their BBQ!

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